• Mix well before using for at least 1-2 minutes. Our glazes are ready to apply with a brush but can thinned for dipping with our MixMaster glaze liquid.
• Apply 3 coats of glaze to fired bisque. Make sure glaze is dry before applying the next coat.
• When ready, fire to the specified cone on the glaze label.

IMPORTANT: Safety First. Dry glaze powder is a respiratory hazard. Always wear a NIOSH-approved respirator (N95 or better) when handling or mixing dry powders. Work in a well-ventilated area and wear gloves.

FOR BRUSHING:
We recommend a starting ratio of 13.5 fl.oz (400ml) of glaze liquid per 1 pound (16 oz) of dry glaze. Use our MixMaster Glaze Liquid for best results, but you can use water.
Process:

• Place the liquid in a bucket first.
• Slowly add the dry powder to the liquid while stirring (a drill mixer is ideal).
• Mix thoroughly. Adjust if needed by adding tiny amounts of liquid or powder until the consistency resembles heavy cream.

FOR DIPPING:
Do not thin the glaze by adding more water. This will dilute the glaze materials and cause poor application and firing results. To thin the glaze for dipping use a deflocculant (like Sodium Silicate or Darvan). This thins the flow without diluting the materials.
Process:

• Add the deflocculant one drop at a time, mixing well after each drop.
• A little goes a long way. Stop immediately if the glaze suddenly seems to get thicker, as this means you have added too much.

FINISHING:
Sieve: Run the mixed glaze through an 80-mesh sieve (or finer) to break up clumps and ensure a smooth application.
Let it Rest: Let the sieved glaze sit overnight. This allows the particles to fully hydrate, which dramatically improves the glaze's application properties.
Final Mix: Stir the glaze thoroughly before use.

• [EASY TO USE] - You can paint our glow in the dark glaze onto greenware, bisqueware or already-glazed finished work . This glaze should be fired to a fast cone 06. Any hotter and the glaze may lose its glow. Contents may settle at the bottom of the jar. Stir with every dip of your brush. The glow glaze doesn’t have a glossy smooth finish and that’s normal. For a glossy finish, cover it with our low fire clear glaze formulated (sold separately) and fire them together at cone 06.
• [FIRE IN POTTERY KILN] - Pottery glaze must be fired in a pottery kiln. Do not fired in a kitchen oven. Ceramic glazes are classified according to a temperature range ("cone") in three general groups: "low-fire," "mid-fire," and "high-fire." Your ceramic kiln must be temperature calibrated to confirm it is firing at the target temperature / cone. Our glow glaze is nontoxic but has not been tested for food safety. We don’t recommend painting this glaze on surfaces that will have food on them.
• [GET IT GLOWING!] - After you fire your ceramic, expose it to UV light, daylight, ultraviolet light, etc. The fired glaze stores the light energy and then slowly releases over time. At night or in a dark room, you will see the luminescence. Tip: the longer you expose the fired glaze to light, the longer it will radiate afterwards.

• Our wax resist is ready to use right out of the jar. Liquid wax resist is an emulsified wax used to “resist” the application of glaze and underglaze on greenware (unfired) and bisque fired ceramics.
• Painting wax resist onto the bottoms of your bisqued pieces will help keep your glaze from adhering to them.
• Wax creates a barrier and blocks the glaze from soaking into the pot.
• With a clean brush, apply Penguin Pottery wax to the bottom of your pots or wherever you don’t want glaze. Let dry for a few seconds and then apply your glaze either by dipping, brushing or spraying (touch up any areas or wipe away any bits of unwanted glaze before firing).
• Wax resist burns off in the kiln. Once a coat of wax resist is applied, it can only be removed by firing in a kiln. Clean your brush with warm water.

• Mix well before using. Kiln wash contents will settle (if you purchased our dry kiln wash, make sure to add water). That's normal! Just like house paints, kiln wash needs to be fully mixed to ensure smooth consistency.
• We recommend mixing well for at least 1-2 minutes. Once mixed, apply several thin coats to the top layer of your shelves, letting it dry thoroughly in between each coat. Use a brush, roller, or even a sprayer.
• Ideally, you should first bisque fire your kiln shelves before firing your pots on them.
• Important: do not apply to fiber-based or silicon carbide shelves.

• HELPS BOND CLAY: Penguin Pottery Potter's Water, sometimes referred to as magic water, is useful when you need to attach one piece of clay to another. For instance, it is used to attach handles, prevent cracking and enhance bonding strength at clay attachment points.
• ATTACH HANDLES: handles can be challenging because either the pot of the handle might be slightly drier than the other, creating cracks or detachment. Potter's Water helps establish a strong bond when attaching handles.
• COIL BUILDING: when handbuilding clay pots using rolled coils, you can use Potter's Water to avoid having to press and blend the coils together. Potter's Water helps you maintain the distinct coil appearance without using excessive pressure, and enhances the bond between the coils.
• ATTACH CLAY SLABS: slabs of clay are prone to cracking at the seams during drying or firing. By using Potter's Water instead of regular water or slip, you can achieve a stronger bond and prevent these cracks.

• PREVENT LUMPING IN CLAY SLIP CASTING - Deflocculate casting slips (ie. prevent lumping). Our sodium silicate causes the particles of clay to repel one another and remain suspended. Please note that, over time, plaster will absorb the solution and will deteriorate / erode.
• CREATE A CRACKLED SURFACE - If you want to achieve a super-interesting crackled clay surface, you can apply Penguin Pottery sodium silicate to your piece right after you finish throwing (before you fire it). Just apply with a brush, wait until it dries, and the place your hands inside the piece and expand the sides.
• HIGH TEMPERATURE ADHESIVE FOR RAKU KILNS - Can be used to bond various types of fiberglass sheets, with excellent resistance to high temperatures, making it suitable for bonding fiberglass sheets used in making a Raku kiln.

• Penguin Pottery Gum Solution slows down glaze drying time and prevents cracking.
• Apply to glazes to improve their brushability and achieve a more even application.
• You can also apply our Gum Solution to dried up glazes by diluting them with water first, then adding our Gum Solution (as needed) to improve their brushability.
• Spraying diluted gum solution over underglaze crayons (prior to glazing) will also prevent the underglaze from smearing while the glaze is applied on top.
• Gum Solution is non-toxic. Do not ingest or use in food preparation. Can be thinned with water to achieve desired viscosity.
• The color of our Gum Solution will NOT affect the color of your glazes - it is designed to burn off when firing.

• Penguin Pottery Stains are a great way to add color to your clay, clay slip, glazes, and underglazes!
• Don’t see a color you like? Our stains can be combined to create a huge range of colors!
• Penguin Pottery Stains reliably produce the same results, every time.
• Some Penguin Pottery Stains have temperature limits, but unless otherwise noted can be fired at all temperatures (low fire, mid fire, high fire.)
• Used as a body stain for porcelain at high temperatures. Results differ according to certain factors: composition of body, firing temperature, cycle, atmosphere, and cooling time.
• When used as a body stain we recommend starting with one part stain to ten parts glaze, and increasing as needed. When used in glaze we recommend anywhere from two to fifteen percent stain. Maximum firing temperature: 2300℉ or 1260℃.